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Please tick the box below to get download link:. As with the a7 the mount can develop issues. I find it hard to recommend. So you would have lost very little. Or you might find that you enjoy working with manual lenses a lot. When I got my first Sony and discovered manual lenses, I found more joy in the process. That in turn improved my photography noticeably. Just like me you could find more enjoyment in photography and you could save a lot of money.
And neither is expensive. I have never used the Zeiss, how well is it corrected for CA? It is easily correctable in LR and C1. No scientific test here, but I love the Contax N as well as the mm and the mm macro , sharp enough for me and lovely colours. Adapter is no budget item, though. For a f4 lens I would save the money and go for the Minolta beer can and a la-ea4 adapter..
If fast focus is your priority or you value exif information a lot that is a viable path. Personally I would prefer a truly manual lens over a AF lens because of the process and also because a Minolta MD adapter is smaller and the available lenses cheaper. I have no budget to get one, is it can use a cheaper adapter to control the Aperture?
Whilst it shows more purple fringing than the Canon L glass at wider apertures, it is incredibly sharp across the frame — even on my A7ii. I have only used it once so far on the A7ii, but I love it as a landscape lens now — having previously used it largely for wildlife and portraits. They are occasionally on EBay and normally go for far less than they should do — beautifully built, including a metal lens hood. This is a screen capture jpg ignore the compression of the before an after.
You can see a slight bit of longitudinal CA in the transition from shadow to sunlight on white flower petal and a bit on the edge of a petal transitioning into the green background.
Interesting Post, Philipp, especially I learned something new to have an alternative to focus peaking using a flaw of the EVF, have to try it out! On top it also has a removable dent with an arca profile alllowing you to mount heavier lenses on a tripod.
I find myself preferring the metabones over the Novoflex …. I have read several reports about bad quality control from Metabones and never about issues with Novoflex adapters and I am very happy with my own Novoflex adapters so I am a bit biased towards the Novoflex adapters.
The Metabones mounting system seems to be better though. I am constantly surprised about people disliking Metabones for one or the other reason. Metabones even supplies the corresponding hex key with the adaptor. This is also true for the AF adaptors. I agree in general, but I DID have some reliability problems with both the III and the IV while shooting underwater, they would lose the lens from time to time, and opening the housing and reattaching the adapter is no real option there.
No such problems with the MC Nice posting and the tip about watching for shimmering is an interesting one. Two other advantages of manual lenses. The Kipon is limited in that it shifts only one way I would say the wrong way relative to the tilt but it is nice to have this. Everyone has their favourite choices of manual lenses.
Mine are Olympus OM, which are very compact and the best of them are very good, though a few of them are quite pricey. There are far too many interesting lenses. Daher meine Frage an Dich: Hast Du ggf.
Erfahrung mit dieser Linse bzw. Good job! I found that there are lots of quality contents on your website. I browsed through the sample images page on your Flickr then I saw that the Name of the manual focus lens and focal length display on your Adobe lightroom screenshot. Could please share to us … How can you do that???
You can save profiles for different lenses. It is still abit of work and you have to remember lens and aperture but it can be very handy. Thank you very much for your reviews and guides.
MF lenses are my favorites. I am also using LensTagger for updating exif info. Is there any way to automatically record aperture or you have to remember and update manually each photo using LensTagger? Just got the a7 ii and trying old Nikon glass: Nikkor-H 28mm, f3. Thus far, more luck with the than the Attach the lens correctly. Any help appreciated. Any body else? On the Is your lens shade adjusted correctly? Im using an ais nikon manual 28 f3. You can see some photos taken with it on the forum.
No problems at all. So set that option to FF. It may be enough for tele, but not for wide angle. Last but not least : some wide angle lenses have a design which was OK for film, but not for digital : the incoming rays of light are striking the sensor at a too oblique angle thus resulting in a lot if smearing and vignetting.
Typically, lenses that were made for range finder film bodies are bad performers starting up at 35mm and shorter. This is often the result of symmetrical design. Most Leica M lenses 35mm and shorter are bad performers for instance. You will be luckier with SLR lenses that have a retro focus design.
Hope this helps. Hi guys, thanks for the very informative post and comments. I have just started using manual lenses with my Sony alpha and am loving the more organic use of my camera. It will look fine on the screen but the image is over or under exposed.
Is there a setting somewhere I need to change? Do you own any native lenses and does whichever exposure mode you are using work with them? Same with my Leica Elmarit 28mm. I have just happened across your website after searching for manual focusing with Sony A7.
I have read all your posts on the subject with great interest. My main reason for wanting to find out more about manual focusing on the A7 is because I have two legacy Nikon lenses that I still use on my film SLR. This are a 28mm 2. I have bought myself a Fotodiox adaptor and have been practising manual focusing via the Peaking method and I have to say I am very hit and miss with regards to getting the main element of the image in focus.
So, I was very interested in two points you make in your blog post, one is the peaking sensitivity. I have it set on high sensitivity at the moment using the assumption that this is better, but you mention having it on low sensitivity.
Should I set mine to low, and of yes why is that, is there a benefit to having it set to low? Even in the lowest setting focus peaking will highlight areas which are not really sharp. Brilliant thanks, I have done this and am getting much improved results already. I just need to train my eye to see the shimmering better and quicker. Yes Phil. To me it just looks like manual focusing with any manual lens. I am not seeing any shimmering. What am I missing?
You should definitely be able to see it then. Which lens am I using? Thanks to your recommendations, I now have pretty much every lens you have recommended except the 85mm ones. I will try with all my minolta lenses by focusing on a fabric I take it you mean like a blanket or other cloth. Thanks for the info.
Its been extremely informative. I was wondering if you had a recommendation on a Minolta or Canon FD lens in the mm focal range? I was looking between the Sony a and the a7. My budget is more for the a but I might be able to make it to the a7 price range. You can see in my blogsite scans of my drawing and sketching on paper mainly.
I also do very large drawings on paper. I also have two old Minolta MD lenses from my old film camera. I know that by buying the adapter I can use them on these cameras. Any advice?
Thanks a lot. Javier Aguilar. I think a decent lighting setup is more important for your reproductions than the camera unless you have some patience and nice window light. I have: 1. Minolta MD mm Albinar ADG 28mm I have a studio with high ceilings and a very big window. Also I installed a large ceiling fluorescent lamp system which gives off quite a lot of light.
The only problem is that the light color comes out very yellow with my point-and-shoot little Fuji camera that I have been using for years now.. I would try to avoid any artificial light, put the camera on a tripod and experiment with different kinds of natural light cloudy, sunny, different hours of the day. Image quality is the same with a Nex-5n. That Minolta lens is decent, the Albinar probably not. Fotodiox Adapters seem to work well enough.
How big are your drawings? How big is your studio? This will determines the focal length you need. This is OK for smaller drawings, of if you can shoot from further away. Fluorescent lighting is a nightmare if you want correct colors. You can use a Gretag Macbeth color checker card, or a white balance card in order to get the right colors : just rake a picture of the card at the beginning and then correct the results in postprocessing.
Hi, thanks for the fantastic instructional blog. I have a couple of fixed Zeiss lenses 50 1. Is there a way to get a sharp focus on these manual lenses? I am looking at the Sony A7 and would love to start using the manual lenses more often. Do you use focus magnification or focus peaking? I think it is very unlikely that an adapter is the reason for your unsharp images, you technique is a much mor elikely reason. Excellent article, Phillip.
It covered all the questions I was asking myself about where to start on manual lenses. I have the Sony A7ii, and am looking forward to experimenting with the legacy lenses. Thank you. Hi Phillip, thanks for your reply. I am sure it is all about me, the user.
But, to whom do turn to find out the correct method? As to focusing methods focus magnification or focus peaking , please explain. Hi Philipps and thanks for good advice on focussing! I took your advice and ordered some used Minolta lenses for my A7.
So far, the results were not good. The two lenses I received so far are a 28mm 2. The 28mm lens had a focusing ring that was so tight it was difficult to turn. The 35mm lens had some kind of black crud inside the front optic, possibly mold. I ordered a replacement for the 35mm lens from another seller. Based on my experience, I would not advise anyone to buy used old lenses on eBay. Sorry to hear about your misfortune. There are certainly unhonest people on ebay and it is often not that easy to spot them.
But if you are careful and a bit more experienced your chances of getting bad lenses are very low, I have probably bought over lenses on ebay and I had only four cases were they were in bad condition, three of them could be resolved.
If you are not that experienced I would try to buy from professional sellers or KEH were you have a right to return lenses. This will be more expensive but also less risky. I had a similar experience recently. I bought a Minolta mm 3. Had to raise an eBay case to get my money back. There are a lot of dishonest sellers on eBay. Hi Phillip, thanks in advance for the article…its really interesting. I was thinking in manual lenses, of course, but i can afford a higher budget, but not enough to get a native Zeiss.
What lenses would you recomend me? Voigtlander, this new cinema line from Rokinon…etc. By the way, great photos and surprising performance from Minoltas lenses. Thanks again! Good site. I finally switched from my Canon F1 to the A7m2.
I have tried some FD lenses and looked at their raw image and histogram: 17F4; 20F2. The wide angle lens are very sensitive to the adapter. I had one for 15Euro that was not black enought and the stray light reflection would be bad for the picture. The Fotodiox adapter seemed ok, but there might be better ones. It seems not to matter with tele lenses. I love the looks of the 17mm and want to buy a 14 mm too. The 50 and 85 mm where too soft with open fstop, the mm was a surprise and very good.
I compared the Sony kit zoom at same mm values to the FD lenses. The FD lense have a better contrast, the FE lens looks flat compared to them at same fstops. The image stabilization is another game changer.
I can shoot the tele lenses at low light now. The mm is good to use with the EVF even at F8 fix , much better than on the F1 even with the bright laser viewfinder lens. I hope for an improved adapter that would signal the fstop position to the camera. So far I am quicker with the F1 as I see time and fstop in the viewfinder. A motor drive fstop change should be possible too. Focus with open F stop is good even without magnification, but I did use my F1 with the laser viewfinder lens without any focus help for years and am used to it.
I am still trying to find the correct Lightroom settings because I have not quite got to the analog color cibachrome quality yet but I am sure I get there. It would be great to receive advice on that. These are truly modern times now thanks to Sony.
I usaually only use two or three aperture settings this makes it easier to remember them but thats what I do. Thank you for this great write up and the excellent review of the FD 50mm 1.
I bought my A7 about six month ago and have been enjoying it every time I was taking pictures. I have the Minolta MD 50mm 1. I also bought the Canon 50mm 1. I found the Canon 50mm is sharper and more contrasty then the Minolta. I am a bit worried about sensor reflection problems of the A7 as the highly reflective sensor is so close to these old manual lenses which do not have modern anti-reflective coatings.
Thanks again. I had little issues with sensor reflections and older lenses. I enjoy your writings about the Sony alpha camera. I just purchased the alpha 7 II and am having trouble identifying a good description of the focusing techniques. Nothing out there spells it our in simple language, for instance, how to move the focus cursor, when and what size cursor works best in what situations.
Can you point me to a source. Hi Bob, you can move the cursor byclicking the wheel at the back in the direction you want it to move. I usually zoom in once because thats enough for me. It took me a while to learn to focus. The EVF is not as sharp an optical viewfinder so focusing is much slower. Now, the focus magnifier is all I use. With a fast lens, I sometimes open the lens and use the shallow depth of field to assist before stopping it down to the DOF I want.
My main point is that it took several days to learn to focus satisfactorily. But forcing involvement gives added value to the cameras. Hi Phillip, Thanks for the article! I would like to use your affiliate ebay links, however you have included only ebay. Consider adding an ebay. Fantastic write up! I recently came across a super albinar mc auto zoom mm lens at a thrift store in great condition and was hoping to find an adapter to fit a sony a7, however Im having some trouble.
Could anyone lead me in the right direction? Wow thanks for the fast reply. Is there any more info, measurements, or pics that I could give you on the lens that might help determine the proper adapter? You should aslo know that the lens is most probably not very good. Philip, I rarely leave comments, but this article blew my mind. Such well written and in-depth piece. After reading I immediately learned how to use my manual lens on Sony A Thanks a lot! My question is, if i want to use other minolta lenses , what should i look for in the name for it to fit to the adapter?
Firstly can i say i love your site. I have been looking for an affordable E mount lens for ages and then found your site. Need to work on getting the images sharper though Focus but this will come with practice i guess.
The adaptor is very well made i think its a solid metal thing and did not notice any movement when using it. You sir are the best. I been reading every single review and saw most of your Flickr photos of the lens you use. I bought a a7ii back in March and I am stuck with the kit lens. And I kinda stopped taking photos because the lens can do so much. And the fact that FE lens cost an arm and leg, but after reading all your articles I am glad to say I have ordered a few Minolta lens and adapter of course and look forward to take photos again.
And I hope you can increase on options for manual lenses and reviews. So I can buy. Thank you! Looking forward to more posts. When I say really impressive, I mean that it can easily compete with the best primes when stopped down, mostly from to mm. The is not bad, but it simply looks soft compared to the mm.
The is big, heavy, it can be difficult to stabilize it from to mm, but it gives really really impressive photos. And his little brother is also terrific closed down. Both lenses are terrific for landscapes.
The Minolta feels like a toy compared to the Zeiss though. The build quality of the Zeiss is terrific. The lens are such as Zeiss 21mm f4 biogon, Zeiss 35mm f3.
The a7ii will be a lot sharper in the center and at least as sharp in the corners. Colorshift will be worse on the a7II. Hello phillip, I enjoyed reading this article. I just bought a Sony a and I know you said you preferred full frame cameras but this is what I could afford for now because I now know how expensive glass and cameras can be.
Will I still get great image quality out of my a with these older lenses? I like shooting product photography as well, Cakes, food and beer. Can you recommend a prime or all around lens for this style of photography?
Manual, Af or zoom? Saving up for my studio lights and gear. Thank you for your time and hope to hear from you!
For my product photography of photo gear :D I usually use a Nex-5n and my Tokina 2. Hey Phillip. Face palm moment but i need your help with lenses. I thought i would bite the bullet as someone new to photography and buy the Sony a7ii. I have had a look at the Sony lenses for this camera and they are very pricey, not just that but in all truth i have no idea what lens es i will need. I am someone who wants to take nature pictures of forests and just all things nature. Notify me of follow-up comments by email.
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